city guide
Durban’s got taste
Growing up in Durban, I once fell for the self-fulfilling cliché that the grass was greener in SA’s other major cities. Whether it’s because I’ve changed or because the city has, I couldn’t tell you, but I find myself increasingly nostalgic for my hometown’s specific brand of sun, sea and great restaurants. Read on so I can convince you to sample what’s on offer – and if your tastebuds tingle, you can book a flight to taste a dish or two yourself
Words: Cayleigh Bright
If you’re feeling spontaneous or planning ahead for a day of relaxed dining, check out these spots.
Mahā Café, The Point Waterfront
This chic spot is just as good for coffee and a pastry from its counter as it is for a lazy lunch or dinner by the sea. I love the high ceilings and breezy feel of this eclectically decorated space – I’m not above admitting that its good looks got me here long before I knew how great the food would be.
The Breakfast Room, POINT WATERFRONT
I was pretty sure that I was “not a breakfast person”, but ardent recommendations of this indoor-outdoor space in the Point precinct meant I had to see for myself whether the dynamic, black-women-led restaurant was all it was made out to be. I discovered that I am a breakfast person when it’s done right: from traditional morning fare like croque monsieur, eggs benedict and French toast to sweet options, open sandwiches and innovative fusion food, there’s something to get everyone’s day off to an excellent start.
Midlands Fable, HOWICK
A little further afield (Curry’s Post) is Midlands Fable, which makes for an ideal day trip from the city in warmer weather. Its impressive gardens make it both a kid-friendly option and an ideal space for anyone seeking a very literal breath of fresh air, and it’s become a favourite for celebration brunches and lunches. In addition to the current menu of wholesome options made from locally grown and sourced ingredients, the venue’s new Tap Room will offer even more options to make repeat visits well worth the trip.
Pink Duck, GREYVILLe
Simplicity is key at this tiny Thai eatery at the bottom of Florida Road. It’s a quaint, quiet space for your lunch meetings or dinner dates, with a one-page, single-sided menu featuring a handful of traditional Thai dishes offered with a variety of proteins, which of course, includes duck. The larb (a meaty salad) is delightfully fresh and gets the balance of sweet, sour, chilli and tangy just right. The curries might leave some sweat on your brow, but the heat levels are reasonable by Durban standards. Offering a no-frills, maximum-flavour dining experience, Pink Duck embodies the Durban philosophy of keeping things simple and focusing on what matters most. Pink Duck shares the space with CityRoast coffee shop and Fresh Flowers International, so you’ll cool off en route to get your cuppa via a flower fridge. Enjoy a Vietnamese iced coffee for dessert or dig into CityRoast’s pastries.
Mahā Café serves classics with a creative twist, and must-try artisanal pastries.
Pink Duck
Fine dining in Durban? A few years ago that might have felt like a contradiction in terms,even though I’ll confidently say that the city’snever been short on delicious flavours. Right now,the tables have turned… fancy.
9th Avenue Waterside
The Chefs’ Table
9th Avenue Waterside
A revival of interest in the Point district is evident in creative, edgy establishments. 9th Avenue Waterside brings a touch of decided refinement to the options on offer next to the port. A view over the harbour makes the upstairs bar a glamorous sundowner spot – open for walk-ins – while the main dining area is well suited to elegant occasions, so let’s retire the complaint that there’s nowhere to dress up for in Durban. The menu is à la carte and draws on its surroundings to highlight seafood in many forms, but impressive vegetarian options and a full vegan menu are available, too.
The LivingRoom at Summerhill Guest Estate
Come to an inviting converted living room with the added cosiness of a fireplace and impressively selected wine list. The attentive service team will put you at ease and ensure your preferences are taken into account for a special occasion. Rather than just elevating existing favourites, The LivingRoom, named Eat Out restaurant of the year 2022, presents dishes that are elegant originals – classics in the making rather than reimagined ones, such as chicken, mussels and peas; and bushpig, fennel and ocra.
The Chefs’ Table,Umhlanga
Excellent food in an exceptionally beautiful setting makes The Chefs’ Table (pictured on this page) a go-to pick for nights out when a well-deserved treat is in order. With superb attention to detail, immense pride in their local suppliers and a well-stocked wine selection, Executive Chef Mathew Armbruster and his team ensure that even the fussiest diners’ expectations are exceeded.
The Cellar at Honeywood
About an hour-and-a-half’s drive from Durban to Sea Park in Port Shepstone, The Cellar at Honeywood has quickly gained a cult following among those of the will-travel-for-good-food ilk. Suspend your disbelief that a menu of such beautifully plated, delicious dining can be this well-priced, and if you’re visiting, why not extend your stay on this appealingly remote part of the South Coast?
durbs ‘INSTA’ BITES & QUENCHERS
The not-to-be-missed stalwarts of the scene
You already know these names – don’t miss getting more familiar with them while you’re in town: @theoysterbox and @spigadurban.
Just a coffee, please!
We don’t just down cold drinks in Durbs. The city’s coffee culture is well on par with anywhere in the world, so enjoy an early morning takeaway or people-watching, catch-up cup with a snack on the side. For handsome spaces and coffee to keep you coming back, don’t forget @the_glenwood_bakery, @thebarnowlcoffee, @skylinecoffeeza, @humblecoffeeza, @thestrangersza and the many branches of @bikeandbean_durban.
And curry – of course
Finding a good curry in Durban? That’s easy. Finding a great curry in Durban? Still easy. But the best in Durban? Well, that’s the never-ending quest. Living in the home of the bunny chow, Durbanites take a lot of pride in their personal favourite curry spot and everyone will tell you they know “the best” place. If they say @canecutters_53, @goundensrestaurant, @hollywoodbunnybarbets, @britanniahotel or @the_curry_os, you can trust their opinion.